Carburetor adjustment is another one of those
great mysteries of engine tuning that some perceive as being a
black art. And true enough, it is a bit of an art if you lack the
sophisticated equipment to do it scientifically such as CO
analyzers and dynamometers. And as an art form, it takes practice
to get good at it.
Carburetor adjustment can be done by the garage
tinkerer quite successfully, and has been for years. Unfortunately,
it does take some trial and error and experience developed over
time to do it well. The topic of carb tuning has been covered by
just about every motorsport website, and has had countless books
written on it. The intention with this installment in our
carburetor series is to tackle the subject in the context of the
asian mini-quad. Specifically, what are the pitfalls and
troubleshooting techniques that are unique to these
machines.
The most fundamental idea
regarding carb adjustment is that there is an ideal air to fuel
mixture for every engine operating condition. This is not only
defined by the engine’s own unique requirements, but also by
the air density (temperature, pressure /altitude, humidity). What
this means is that not only must a tuner determine what the engine
wants at a certain environmental condition, but that adjustments
may need to be made to accommodate a colder day, a more humid
climate, or a higher altitude.
The idle mixture screw on the
Asian mini-quad is located near the air-cleaner side of the
carburetor (slotted screw on upper right hand of the
photo).
Before getting into the environmental adjustments,
the first step is to get the adjustments and jetting correct for
that engine configuration. Anything that would affect the
engine’s breathing ability will affect carb adjustment.
Obviously, installing an aftermarket carb will require tuning, but
so will changing to a different air filter.
Cylinder porting and a
pipe will not directly require a tuning adjustment since they only
affect the engine’s ability to create airflow. The carb
really doesn’t know what’s downstream. However, it
might care what’s downstream – for example, if a pretty
hot cylinder is installed with lots of compression and/or lowend
porting, then the carb might want to be a little richer, or fatter,
to decrease peak combustion temperatures. Ideally, tuning should be
done at the “near normal” conditions you expect to run
so as to minimize the need for fine tuning when conditions
change.
Whether stock or aftermarket, the
first step in carb adjustment is to dial in the idle circuit.
Recall that a relatively high vacuum exists
downstream of the throttle slide when it’s closed, or at
idle. A passage in this area is connected to the float bowl that
allows fuel to be sucked into the engine while the throttle is
closed. As the throttle is opened, this vacuum drops and the amount
of fuel drawn into the engine through this passage decreases
accordingly.
We can adjust this amount of fuel by turning the idle
mixture screw. On these carburetors the idle mixture screw actually
controls the amount of ‘bleed’ air that’s
T’ed into this passage. The more the screw is turned out, the
more the bleed passage is opened, and therefore more air instead of
fuel that’s being sucked into the engine via the primary or
idle circuit.
The idle circuit air supply
passage can become blocked with dirt and cause a rich running
condition. This is the hole at about 7 o'clock on the carb
inlet.
The question is just how do we know when the
adjustment is correct. The simple answer is when you’ve
obtained the highest idle rpm.
The highest rpm is achieved when the
air-fuel ratio (AFR) is optimized. Remember that while this
adjustment is being made the throttle is essentially fixed, that
is, held at idle. We are not changing the amount of air being drawn
into the engine. If the engine rpms increase, that would imply that
the engine is doing a more effective job converting the fuel and
the given amount of air to useful mechanical power. Too little
fuel, and the revs are too low. Too much fuel, and the revs are
also too low. Somewhere in between, and combustion efficiency and
the revs are maximized.
With the engine
off, turn the idle mixture screw in (CW) until the screw seats and
count the number of turns. Note this number as a
“fall-back” if you decide that your adjustments are not
working and you want to get back to the baseline, or ground zero
point. Next, turn the screw back to the baseline adjustment and
start the engine and warm it up thoroughly, maybe even ride the
quad a bit before starting the adjustment.
With the engine running
at idle turn the screw in (CW). This has the effect of closing the
‘air bleed’ passage to the idle circuit, thereby
allowing more fuel to be drawn up from the float bowl, richening
the fuel mixture. Make 1/4 turn increments until you notice a drop
in engine speed. Then turn the screw out (CCW) in 1/4 turn
increments. You should notice the engine revs going back up, then
dropping again. Take note of how many turns it took to reach this
point. Divide this number in half to determine where the
theoretical optimized point is. Turn the screw in to reach this
point. You may need to experiment with this procedure a few times
to satisfy yourself that you’ve found the sweet spot.
If by turning the screw you were never able to
find the point where the revs peaked, i.e, the revs keep
climbing/dropping until you bottomed the screw, or the screw came
out, then you may need a different size pilot jet. As noted above,
the idle circuit is fed by a passage that connects a port in the
carb to the float bowl.
The amount of fuel drawn by this circuit is
not only controlled by the idle mixture screw, but also by the size
of the orifice in the pilot jet at the float bowl. If you’ve
turned the screw in completely (air bleed totally closed) and the
revs seemed to keep increasing up to that point, it would indicate
that the engine is wanting an even richer mixture. Install a bigger
pilot jet. If you’ve backed the screw completely out and the
revs still haven’t peaked, it would indicate a need for even
more bleed air, or less fuel. Install a smaller pilot jet.
If adjustment of the idle mixture screw
doesn’t seem to have any affect, then one of two things is
going on. The first most likely possibility is the air bleed
passage may be blocked. This can occur if the air-filter has passed
too much dirt which has gotten into the passage at the mouth of the
carb. If this happens the engine will be running very rich, but can
still run. The second possibility is that the pilot jet itself is
blocked from dirt getting into the float bowl. If this happens,
very little or no fuel will enter the carb.
It’s quite likely
that engine will not even run since the primary ingredient in the
recipe for combustion is missing – fuel. Engine’s
generally have a higher tolerance for too rich than for too lean.
If it seems you need quite a bit of throttle to keep the engine
idling (no longer using the idle circuit for fuel supply) then this
could be your problem.
Next step
-->>> high speed, or main jet adjustment.
i have one of these carbs on a 50cc quad and had nothing but problems with it .when i took it a part i noticed it was missing the seat that the needle for the throttle seats.i would like to know where i can get a rebuild kit or purchase another carb or an up grad to that one? thanks for any help and info. wayne
Bryan / Dyersburg, TN, UNITED STATES
Posted Jun 15 2009 08:57AM
I have a 90cc quad and the carbs look very similar. I assume the same process applys but what information do you have for high speed adjustments. Thanks Bryan
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