How many times have you called up a riding buddy
to say, "HEY MAN, Let's go Ridin'", only to hear "I can't, my ride
is down! It needs a top end rebuild and the bike shop said they
can't get to it for 2 weeks, and at 40 bucks an hour it's gonna
cost me an arm and a leg..".
I have heard
it too many times. Last week I was at the bike shop when I
overheard a conversation where a man at the service counter was
buying a new piston and rings for his quad. The parts man asked the
guy, "What size do you need?" The man said, "I don't know, I have
never done this before."
This was all I
needed to hear to decide to do this article.
I am going to keep this article geared more towards the two
strokes because as we all know those thumper motors run forever
(well almost). You first need to determine why the motor needs
rebuilt. Is the piston just worn out, or is there an air leak in
the motor somewhere causing the air/fuel mixture to run
lean?
To make that determination, you need
to check out the article written by ORC's own Colin
Bylund.."How to make your own pressure tester and test for air
leaks".
Phase One
The first thing you need to do is all the obvious stuff:
1) Remove all the plastic in the way. In some cases you may need to
remove the gas tank also.
2) Remove the exhaust pipe.
3) Remove the carb and reed cage.
4) Drain the radiator and remove the hoses. PLEASE remember it's
not just water - it's antifreeze. Dispose of it properly.
5) Remove the spark plug and any brackets connecting the head and
or cylinder to the frame.
Now that all the
prep work is done, let's jump right into our rebuild. PLEASE
remember that once you open the motor up, it is very important that
NO dirt should be allowed to get into the motor.
1) Remove the head from the cylinder by first
removing the nuts then lifting the head up off the cylinder. First,
when removing the head nuts, it should be made clear that the
untorquing should be done gradually and in a pattern, so as not to
risk warping the head. The same goes for torquing things back
together; it should be done evenly and in the pattern recommended
by the manufacturer. Also, never use a screwdriver or other device
to pry off the head or cylinder. You can use a rubber mallet to
free up a stubborn cylinder.
2) Remove
the cylinder from the motor by removing the nuts, (and yes, you
should gradually untorque and retorque the nuts using the pattern
recommended by the manufacturer) then lifting the cylinder up off
the studs. PLEASE note that on some motors there may be other
procedures that may need to be preformed before lifting the
cylinder off. Example: on the Suzuki 250 & 500s have a cover
that must be removed to expose a link that is connected to an
exhaust valve. One end of the link MUST be disconnected.
3) Once the cylinder has been removed, EVERYTHING
(reed cage, Suzuki exhaust valve, old gaskets) MUST be removed from
the cylinder.
4) Remove the old piston
by removing one of the clips holding in the wrist pin, then pull
the pin out. Be careful not to drop the washers or bearings into
the motor as you pull the wrist pin out of the piston. One way to
guarantee nothing gets in the bottom end is to stick a clean shop
rag over the crank to keep junk out
Phase Two
Once the motor has been disassembled, and only after the motor
has been disassembled, you can now determine what size the new
piston will be. To determine the size of the new piston you must
measure the size of the cylinder bore. You do this with a cylinder
bore gauge. If you do not have the proper measuring instrument, you
can take the cylinder to a bike shop or a engine rebuild shop to
have it measured. Once the size has been determined, you buy a
piston and set of rings the next size up.
If you clean off the top of the piston and there are no
numbers on the top, it may be a stock size piston. If it has
numbers on it, those numbers can tell you what size the piston is.
If it has a number .25mm on it, it means it's a "10 over" piston.
If it has a number .50mm on, it means it's a "20 over" piston,and
so on and so on.
The reason for buying a
piston the next size up is because you need to have the cylinder
bored to match the new piston and rings in order to have good
compression in the motor.
Once you have the
new parts (piston, rings, wrist pin, wrist pin bearing, gaskets),
you should then take the cylinder, rings and piston to an engine
rebuilder to have the cylinder bored to match the new piston and
rings. NOTE: Please be sure the cylinder is completely
disassembled. Example: In the case of a Suzuki LT250 or LT500 the
exhaust valve MUST be removed. If any of the grit from the boring
and honing process gets into the valve or bearings, it will be
damaged.
You can take the cylinder to a
bike shop to have the work done, but I find that the local
automotive engine rebuilder in my neighborhood will do it cheaper
and faster.
Once the cylinder is bored to
match the new piston you will need to make sure the cylinder is
spotless before you can reinstall it. Rinse it with warm soapy
water, then with clear water. Dry the cylinder then spray it with a
very light coat of WD40.
Phase Three
You are now ready for reassembly. It is simply the
reverse order of dissasembly, with just a few things to be aware
of. Always read the instructions that come in the box of your new
piston. There may be special instructions that pertain specifically
to your motor that may be very important.
1) Install the piston rings on the piston. The instructions in
the box will explain exactly how they fit.
2) Attach the piston to the connecting rod.
a) Slide the bearing into the connecting rod.
b) Place the bearing spacers at each end of the bearing.
c) Slip the piston over the bearing.
d) Then slide the wrist pin through the piston and bearing
assembly.
e) Install the wrist pin retainer clips.
It should be noted that while the piston will fit on either way,
you need to make sure that it is installed per the instructions
that came in the box. That will usually be with the mark (or arrow)
on the top of the piston pointed toward the exhaust port. If the
piston is installed improperly, damage may occur.
3) Coat the piston with a light coat of 2 stroke
oil.
4) Install base gasket. Make sure
ALL of the old gasket was removed from the mating surfaces or you
WILL have an air leak.
5) It is now
time to slip the cylinder over the piston. You must make sure that
the rings are in their correct position and that they are not
catching on any thing as you slide the cylinder over the piston. If
the cylinder does not go on smoothly, check to make sure the rings
have not moved. DO NOT force the cylinder on. Damage will result,
at your expense.
6) Torque down the
cylinder as per the manufacturer's specifications.
7) Place new head gasket into position.
8) Place head into position and torque to
manufactures specifications.
9) At this
point you are ready to reassemble all of the misc. things you had
to remove. Such as.....
a) Reed cage and carb
b) Exhaust pipe
c) Radiator hoses (don't forget to refill the radiator with the
proper mix)
d) Any linkage that had to be removed, including any engine
braces.
e) Gas tank and plastic
f) Install a new plug
10) Double check everything !!!
Now that you're ready to fire this Bad Boy up, remember, break
it in easy, so here's a Break
in page to make sure this new motor will last. At idle, a
cold 2-stroke doesn't get enough top end lubrication because the
cold fuel/air mix condenses in the bottom end and doesn't make it
to the piston/cylinder walls. The motor should be GENTLY revved up
and down to make sure the cylinder gets lubed properly. Do this and
the motor will last you a long time.
Special thanks to Jason Witzeling and Colin Bylund for their
input. Thanks Guys!!
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